In the summer of 2004, I attended a ten day Vipassana course at the Honk Kong Vipassna Centre. Here is what I wrote as a record of my experiecnes shortly after returning to the 'real world.'
The teaching was very precise and clear. Goenka's daily discourse was always most amusing, full of stories and anecdotes, and very encouraging. This was always the highlight of the day.
The location itself was very secluded, and I found the peace and quiet very restful. Not having to talk to people was, in some ways, a great relief. There was no idle chatter and, though we lived in very close quarters for ten days, we were complete strangers for nine of them.
The regime of the course was very tough. Getting up at 4am was something I got used to: I could manage to sit for the fist hour or so of the 4.30am sitting, but I usually found it extremely hard to stay awake during the second hour. Again, I managed an hour of the three hour morning sitting without much trouble but the remaining two hours were a real drag. The four hours in the afternoon were broken up into three sessions, the middle of which was more structured, but the long third session was very dull. I found the meditation sessions too long, I experienced a lot of pain, though this did improve later and I was able to sit with more equanimity, and was very bored some of the time. Goenka chanted in Pali a great deal in his low pitched voice and, after a while, this really stated to irritate me. I felt it distracted me from the meditation and couldn't really see the point of it. I was also irritated by his interminable, repetitive instructions: I appreciate that repetition is the key to remembering, but I felt he went on and on a bit too much.
When we weren't meditating or eating, there was absolutely nothing to do. The compound itself was tiny and so there was nowhere to walk, nothing to see and, because it was so hot, one couldn't even sit outside for long. We couldn't read a book or write a journal, so we usually just went to sleep. This lack of intellectual stimulation was a really difficult thing to cope with.
The facilities of the centre were generally very poor. It was a ramshackle New Territories village environment. There were four toilet / shower cubicles to be shared between everyone, though only two of the showers were of a decent quality and even these were temperamental and on two occasions the ignition didn't work so I had to have cold showers. The cubicles themselves were made or corrugated metal sheet and concrete; the floors were concrete and were green with all the water which had flowed over them. Each cubicle has an orange plastic concertina door with a small plastic ring attached to the handle which could be hooked over an old piece of metal to act as a lock. All four cubicles were quite dirty and full of spiders, beetles, cockroaches and other insects.
The male dorm contained eight poor quality bunk beds made of thin metal frames, painted red, each containing a very thin mattress and a mosquito net which had to be arranged over four metal poles which had been attached to the top bunk. It was very crowded and there were no cupboards, shelves or wardrobes, so we were forced to live out of a suitcase. The two small air conditioners were inadequate for the job, were noisy and didn't provide much cooling. Again, the dorm was home to a variety of insects and also a rat which I saw scurrying through a hole between the dorm and the kitchen, which were adjacent, on several occasions.
There was a real lack of privacy. The camp was tiny and we could go nowhere to get away from other people.
The male dining area was outdoors, next to the Dhamma Hall, and consisted of a large makeshift table, on which the food was laid out in trays, and three smaller tables with plastic chairs for us to sit around when eating. A bowl, chopsticks and cup had to be acquired by each student and kept by them until the end of course.
The quantity of food was definitely insufficient: toast for breakfast and two small bowls of rice and vegetarian food for lunch. We we allowed a couple of bananas for tea. There was no dinner. I was always hungry in the evenings but, having said this, I didn't starve and I think it was a good experience to go hungry for a while: it makes one more appreciative and less liable to complain about things. The food itself was plain and there was little variety from day to day. Often, I didn't want to eat the food since it was so tasteless, but I forced it down because I knew there'd be nothing until 6.30am the next day. There was nothing to drink except warm water from the 'cooler' (which obviously didn't work), some herbal tea and horlicks.
All of this did go to highlight just how attached I am to the things I enjoy in my daily life and which I largely take for granted: a hot shower in a clean, spacious environment, tasty food in a nice hotel or restaurant, a cold glass of beer, a good book, a movie, a clean, spacious and comfortable bed, privacy. I have certainly enjoyed these 'simple pleasures' since coming home.
In spite of all the deprivations, pain, inconvenience, boredom, plain food and poor facilities, I actually felt really good when I returned to the 'real world'. I felt clean and whole. I didn't feel tired. I felt alert and alive. I felt full of peace. I've feel as if I don't want to waste another moment of my life on negativity.
I went to a hotel restaurant and then walked around TST in the afternoon of my return and I felt great. I didn't mind the crowds, the pushing, the shoving. I didn't hurry. I didn't get annoyed or angry. I just enjoyed myself. I had a phone conversation with my parents and sister in the UK which was one of the nicest, most positive conversations I'd had with them for a long time.
I'd spent a long time looking for 'enlightenment,' but now I felt as if I've had an experience which wass not what I expected, and not enlightenment, but a great change for the better. Whether it is the practice of Vipassana, as taught by Goenka, which made me feel like this, or just the plain, simple life I was living, I don't know.
Bhavatu sabba mangalam. Sadhu, sadhu, sadhu.
The daily schedule.
4am. Get up and shower
4.30-6.30am. Meditation in the hall, the last of hour of which is a tape of Goenka's Pali chanting.
6.30-8am. Breakfast and then sleep.
8-9am. Meditation with the assistant teachers.
9-11am. Meditation in the hall without the assistant teachers.
11am-1pm. Lunch and then sleep. Interview with the assistant teachers if requested.
1-2.30pm. Meditation in the hall without the assistant teachers.
2.30-3.30pm. Meditation with the assistant teachers.
3.30-5pm. Meditation in the hall without the assistant teachers.
5-6pm. Tea and sleep.
6-7pm. Meditation with the assistant teachers.
7-8.15pm. VCD discourse given by Goenka
8.15-9pm. Meditation with the assistant teachers.
9-9.30pm. Questions to the assistant teachers if needed. Otherwise bed.
Links.
The Vipassana Website. www.dhamma.org/os (user: oldstudent, pass: behappy)
Dhamma books. http://www.dhammabooks.com/ and http://www.pariyatti.com/
Global pagoda. http://www.globalpagoda.com/
Vipassana research institute. http://www.vri.dhamma.org/
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